Back from Dali

I have just returned to Kunming from a week-long getaway back in my old stomping grounds of Dali. About 4 1/2 hours northwest of Kunming, Dali is my heart's home in China. My simple room-apartment still looks over the expansive peaks of the Cang Mountains. As I walked home after a public coal-fueled shower yesterday at sunset (no sun, no passive solar power, no hot water at home), the clouds were like a white mink stole, nestled around the curves, then a fluffy crown sat atop the tops of the mountains. It was spectacular.

When I mentioned how beautiful the clouds looked today, our driver for the trip back to Kunming asked incredulously, "You have lived here for so long and you still notice the beauty of the mountains?" He was insinuating that one "gets used to" living at the foot of a chain of eighteen 4000m peaks in a sharp emerald hue with the freshest spring water plummeting down the valleys. I was surprised to hear this from a local, but I later discovered he lives in Xiaguan, the new concrete city of 1m people 15km from Dali Old Town. Figures.

It rained a lot, but I did get some things 'accomplished' during my week.

* Started reading Oracle Bones by Peter Hessler, author of River Town and former WSJ reporter. This book was a Christmas gift from Aunt Beth and I have been saving it for a time when I needed fresh eyes to see China, a time when astute observation about the changing China was needed. I am so glad I waited.
He starts the book in 1999, the first year I came to China and chronicles the life of a young American in Beijing. I was in Shanghai, but we experienced the same protests after the Chinese embassy bombing in Yugoslavia (all signs point to CIA covert-op), the first massive public demonstration of the 'gong fu secret cult not to be named' went live coordinated in toto via cell phone causing Beijing to ban said cult movement, and the run-up to the PRC 50 year anniversary. It was a big year. I cannot wait to keep reading. Thanks so very belatedly Aunt Beth.

* Read a slew of new-for-Dali magazines from 2007. I read an outdoor adventure magazine and lusted after the diversity of the American national park landscapes. I read several Style magazines and it seems the celebrities are still having lives and wearing clothes. I read a Business Week and an Economist and realized how much I miss intelligent news bundled together and written well. The there was the Australian gossip mag from 2006 (um...it was before my first coffee...)

* I had several delicious meals including: an apple walnut blue cheese salad, XinJiang muslim noodles, tacos, fresh asparagus, baked spaghetti, and pricey in-season wild mountain mushrooms.

* I helped my friend, David the Juggler, with his circus act. All those years of ballet taught me to rehearse and practice in front of people, break the routine into sections and practice them out of order, and face away from the mirror sometimes during practice. It was fun to watch this certified ball master invent, choreograph, and dance his 3, 4 & 5 !!! ball routine.

* I had some quality poker time till the wee hours of the morning. The first night was for 10rmb (1.25$) and lasted for hours. The second night was several lightning-speed 50rmb (7.15$) games with winner take all. Mei.zi jiu (plum wine) infused evenings tend to assist people with letting go of their money. Amazingly, I rescued my reputation with a last game win with nothin' but a single high Jack. Next time I go back, I think a ladies night session of 80 Points will be in order.

* I actually picked up a pen and paper to write some thoughts about the spring on paper. It really has been a doozy of a season, so it was quite excellent to have the mountains, the rain, and some quiet time to scribble and scrawl. David and I have great talks about how things work and why things are the way they are and what is worth thinking about and doing. Lots of fuel to add to my scribblings.

I did not open my computer once for a week. It has been over a year since that has happened. The curse of my generation. In Dali, I find myself thinking of all things non-digital. It is restorative.

When we got back in to Kunming, we headed straight to opening night at the all-you-can-eat buffet started by my friend from Burma. The food was astoundingly good. Thai, Indian, Italian, Salads, Soups. I have to say my favorite was the Ginger Dal with yellow lentils. I miss legumes. For a full-on splurge of 48rmb (7$), I thought it would be a good way to reward myself for tearing myself away from Paradise.