Dali, a quick trip

I am always amazed that Dali continues to remodel, renovate and reconstruct itself. I am amazed that the construction industry and the government continue to find new places in need of total overhaul. First in 1999, it was the reconstruction of the "ancient city wall." I remember the main drag being retrofitted with Parisian style lampposts a while back. I remember the huge marble arch erected over Foreigner Street commemorating the worldwide reputation of Dali last year.

Now the government has turned its gaze to, perhaps, the most famous street in Dali. The "Third Moon Street" is home to the ancient (and aptly-named) Third Moon Festival. For centuries, people from far and wide have come to Dali to race horses and trade goods for two weeks during the third lunar month. It is also well known to tourists, local officials and surprised evening strollers as the Red Light District. Should that be in capital letters? In Dali, perhaps this cracked, dusty hill boulevard of sex work and off-key karaoke should remain in lowercase. Soon, the revelers and service staff will be strolling on new pavement to the burbling sounds of new sidewalk waterways.




As I was leaving my house on the mountainside, I have to cross a new 8 lane highway. A few years ago, this was a 2-way dirt road lovingly called 'the old road.' Today, this is quickly becoming the swift road with few lights that cuts the time from the new city of XiaGuan to the old town of Dali to 20 minutes. In many ways, this road is awesome. I have to cross this road to get into town. I know it can be dangerous trying to cross in the best of times, and with adverse conditions such as scalding sand whipping down the mountain, it can be quite trying.

I was not surprised to see this funeral parade crossing skittering to the center island. They were wearing white head scarves, blowing crude trumpets and carrying the tent-like coffin. They were circling the body, clapping and chanting. I could not help but wonder: "Is this the way old people in Dali are dying? or Is this the way young people are dying in Dali?"

Highway safety, people. I hear it all the time: Country bumpkins have no culture. They have no idea how to follow traffic regulations. Whine, whine, whine. Yes, they are new to big fancy highways. Especially when those highways cut through their old pedestrian-friendly towns, their traditional market trekking patterns and their sacred ancestral lands. I have heard people whisper about ghosts of vehicular homicide victims stalking Dali, unsettled by their method of demise. Instead of griping about how people do not know how to cross the street, maybe there is a way to encourage safe crossing by, oh I don't know, traffic lights, cross walk enforcement, signs, warning bells, creating detours on market days.... I know there are ways to keep people from dying while walking across an 8 lane highway. Combined with increased car ownership and growing road rage, pedestrian health in should remain a priority in an ever-complicating China.



This is the beautiful Blue Mountains. They are not blue, usually green with trees or grey with rain and snow. This is the March 1st snow cover atop the 4000m peaks. I love these mountains for their height, their depth, and their simple unfolding magnificence.